Chicken — popular, safe and ubiquitous — can sometimes fall victim to its own success because it has been offered and iterated so many ways on today's menus. That everyday familiarity of America's most popular protein puts a real challenge before creative chefs. They either rise to the occasion or they generate yawns. It is indeed fortunate that so many onsite chefs choose to do the former. Often, they will employ lesser-used cuts or new types of prep methods to “upscale” their ...

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