By Gina Mallet W.W. Norton & Co., Ltd, New York, 2004, $25.95 (hardcopy) Mallet's topic is one anybody passionate about food and culinary matters can readily appreciate:Where the heck has good food gone!? But rather than a polemical screed, Mallet's exposition is much more intelligent—and a lot more fun to read than your typical down-with-Mc-Donald's diatribe. Mallet grew up in England during and after the Second World War and even through the privations of that era she remembers ...

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