MOTHER TONGUE: Need to communicate with your staff? All of them know the common French terms. Publishers Weekly, in an early review of my new book, The Elements of Cooking, criticized it for being Francocentric (it should have been called The Elements of French Cooking, the unsigned reviewer wrote, and dismissed its lack of a broader world view). I read this review upon returning from Chicago where I’d attended a weekend celebrating the 20th Anniversary of Charlie Trotter’s eponymous ...

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