The doyenne of American cooking, the late Julia Child, never met a stick of butter she didn't like. She credited her long life not to avoiding certain foods, but rather, to enjoying everything in moderation. That's good advice in this age of conflicting health news. Saturated fat is bad; wait, it's good now. It's trans fats that are bad. Not long ago beef was verboten, but now it's back, because carbs are enemy No. 1 — unless you pay homage to the USDA's Food Guide Pyramid. And what ...

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