Only a quarter-century ago one of Americans’ favorite ethnic cuisines was known simply as “Italian.” For the masses, it shared the limelight with the other two ethnic biggies, Chinese and Mexican. Just as Chinese of recent yesteryear is now included in today’s all-encompassing “Asian,” particularly in loftier dishes, so, too, has Italian been largely subsumed by the larger “Mediterranean.” But lumping a truly great world cuisine with ...

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