No one, including crack restaurant inspector Jeff Nelken, likes looking under refrigerators for yesterday's forgotten dirt, filth and food particles shoved underneath by busy feet. He does it religiously, though, two or three times a day, 300 days a year. Like every food safety inspector, Nelken has horror stories that could make listeners' toes curl. But his proudest tales are of bringing a filthy restaurant back from the dead or helping a five-star restaurant avoid a failing grade or ...

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