"Forget James Beard and Julia Child. When it comes to American cookery, I’m for their foe: Poppy Cannon, food editor of Ladies’ Home Journal and House Beautiful and much-mocked author of The Can-Opener Cookbook. "Cannon could conjure a serviceable dinner in five minutes, and advocated cheerful reliance on the postwar grocery goods she called “wonderstuffs.” She made Black Cherry Chicken from grocery-store rotisserie and fruit in cans. Like me, she believed that most food tastes the same, ...

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