When Small is Big

Some examples: A sheet of brownies now yields 144 pieces instead of 72, and strawberry shortcake became a smaller “biscuit” with more fruit. Bagels shrank. What increased was an emphasis on world cuisines and their reliance on more vegetables, fruits, grains and legumes, artfully prepared with a greater range of seasonings and presented in smaller portions. Freshly made sushi, dim sum and smaller bowls of Vietnamese pho, where students can take as little or as much as they want, are huge hits.

Toong notes that standbys such as roast turkey, pizza and meatloaf and potatoes haven't been bumped from menus. There's simply a greater choice of smaller, more healthful items across the university's dining venues.

Small plates are having an impact in senior dining, too, according to Natalie Rose-Miller, marketing specialist for Sodexo Senior Services, which is testing a small-plates program for assisted-living residents in the Northeast.

“Many of our seniors regularly enjoy going to trendy restaurants” and look for the trends they see there on onsite menus, she says. Chef Robert Noble, dining and culinary senior manager who oversees some 80 Senior Services accounts, says the program test will consist of three options: a regular entrée with small appetizer and salad choices; a choice of small entrées; and a choice of small desserts. If it is successful with residents, it will roll out to all accounts in the region next spring.

The challenge to offering small plates? “Labor is more costly,” says Centerplate's Lewis. “You're building plates to order.

“However, if you develop an antipasto or appetizer concept where people can nurture their appetites, they let their hair down and really explore the food choices you are offering.”

Brent T. Frei operates Frei & Associates, a foodservice-marketing firm based in Schaumburg, Ill. Prior, he was director of marketing for the American Culinary Federation, Inc.

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