FM Innovator: Field of Dreams

Dining Director Tony Geraci is betting the farm on changing how Baltimore City Schools Operates Its Nutrition Program.

Elsewhere, a troop of goats roam. The goats earn their keep by clearing fields for planting. “You set a group of goats into an overgrown field and it's remarkable how fast they will clear it, even the poison ivy and poison oak,” says Geraci, who seems to have a knack for making the animals come when he calls. He already has bee hives producing honey and plans to add fish tanks as well as some dairy cows and start cheese production in the near future.

In addition to its growing activities, Great Kids Farm offers vocational training and extended internships for high school students and young adults.

The vocational training is part of a planned “agri-hospitality” program that will train students to identify business opportunities in the farm to fork chain. The program manages Great Kids Café, located in the school district's central office, which serves dishes made with ingredients grown at Great Kids Farm.

The Café is central to a two-year externship program kicking off this January that will have students working at both Great Kids Farm and Great Kids Café, eventually moving up into quasi-management roles in the program in the second year. Another project, slated to open next year, is the first agro-hospitality high school in the United States, a kind of charter school with 300 students who will learn to operate across the farm-to-fork supply chain, trained in both organic agricultural techniques and in hospitality and culinary skills.

“I don't want to create an army of french fry jockeys,” says Geraci. “There are plenty of places you can learn to do that. I want to create cooks and chefs with real career opportunities.”

A Community Incubator

Great Kids Farm also serves as an incubator for school and community garden projects, another Geraci passion. School groups come and learn how to grow crops and then take transplants back to their schools and start gardens there from them. They then maintain those gardens and even serve some of the products in the school, illustrating every step of the traditional food supply channel for children whose only context is the cans, bottles and shrink wraps at the grocery store. Currently, 40 schools in the district have begun such school gardens and Geraci's goal is to have one in every school.

Great Kids Farm also seeds community “hoop houses,” greenhouse operations designed to fit into urban areas to grow fresh produce for area residents.

“I'm on the mayor's task force to develop and build a food system in urban agriculture in the city of Baltimore,” Geraci explains. “We're reclaiming a total of about 30 acres in the city where we'll build portable greenhouses for food production, rather than waiting for Safeway or Whole Foods to build grocery stores in neighborhoods where they're never going to build. So why not bring food to the food deserts? Why not build entrepreneurial models where young men and women can carve out a little piece of business and have these alternative farmers markets in neighborhoods where yuppies don't go.”

Great Kids Farm also serves as a test field for potential additions to the district menu. “The farm can't supply all of our needs, of course, but we use it to plant different crops that we then have the kids try. So for example, they'll tell us they like this variety of turnip or collards. We can then go to a farmer and say, ‘Put in 80 acres or this or 100 acres of that and we'll buy it.’ Or, farmers come to us and tell us the kinds of things that grow especially well around here, and we try those. In the end, it's good for us, good for the kids and good for the farmers.”

Veg Out

One of Anthony Geraci’s innovations in the Baltimore City Public Schools school meal program is “Meatless Mondays.” The system is the largest in the country to adopt such a program, which Geraci admits is a “social statement” but also “a way to amortize operating costs so that I can buy more the rest of the week.”

The program, which removes meats from the lunch menu each Monday in favor of alternatives like cheese lasagna, rice and beans, cheese sandwiches and so forth, was introduced this fall. Geraci says it is also a way to bring some meatless ethnic dishes to the program to give the students a taste of different cultures’ food traditions. “I don’t want to homogenize the kids, I want to celebrate their different cultures and expose them to as many different kinds of foods and ways to prepare foods as I can.”

He says the recipes, some of which are solicited from students and adapted to volume production and school nutritional standards, also can help the poverty-stricken families of students by providing examples of tasty dishes made with inexpensive, healthy ingredients.

Breakfast Program

One of Anthony Geraci's first initiatives when he took over as head of the child nutrition program for the Baltimore City Public Schools was to change the breakfast program. While he had to wait a year for existing contracts to expire in the lunch program, the breakfast program deal was up for renewal.

“I zeroed in on that,” he says. “I worked with an industry partner to create little breakfast boxes with the lowest sugar content cereal I could find on the market, 100% juice and a whole grain snack.”

For extra kid appeal, about one in 20 of the packages also contains prizes, a “Happy Meal idea” Geraci says he took from McDonald's. Prizes include MP3 players and tickets to local sporting events, thanks to partnerships Geraci struck with the town's popular professional sports teams, the Baltimore Ravens of the NFL and Major League Baseball's Baltimore Orioles.

“I partnered with the Ravens and Orioles because I wanted the kids to have different role models,” he says. “For one thing, there's the connection between nutrition and athletic performance. Also, these great athletes on these teams didn't become great athletes by accident. They worked at it. These are readily accessible heroes I can bring to my kids.”

The result was the Breakfast With the Birds program, which brings several Ravens or Orioles once a month to the school with the highest breakfast participation the previous month to have breakfast with the kids.

“It gave the teams an opportunity to connect with their fans and gave the kids an opportunity to meet their heroes,” says Geraci. “And it gave us all an opportunity to have a conversation about nutrition and starting the day off right with a good breakfast.”

The lesson must have sunk in. Breakfast participation shot up in the first two months of the program last fall from about 7,500 a day to 40,000.

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