Environmentalism is clashing with culinary tradition in France in the form of a small migratory songbird called the ortolan, which was designated an endangered species in Europe nine years ago. A big reason it’s endangered: the French like to eat it. Though it sounds as disgusting to Americans as Tater Tots slathered in ketchup does to the French, whole roasted ortolans are considered a delicacy in France. Traditionally, the birds are trapped and fattened up for a couple weeks. Then they ...

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